Thursday, May 31, 2012

Cross country road trip

This weekend, we finally ventured out of Vilnius and all the way across Lithuania to its southwestern-most point: Nida.  We crossed the country, drove onto a ferry, and then drove 45 km down one giant sand dune to within sight of Russia (Kaliningrad, that is). The whole drive took about 4.5 hours, with a couple of pit stops. Along the way, we learned to interpret all the road signs we passed, including this one to the right. I believe it means "picnic area", but should be more aptly subtitled: "Danger: falling trees!" or "Picnickers beware!" or, maybe "Timber!!"



Nida is the southernmost city on the Curonian spit, which is the Lithuanian end of a peninsula that juts out from Kaliningrad (the Russian exclave in the middle of Eastern Europe - on the far left of the picture above). It has the Baltic Sea to the west, and a body of water that they call a lagoon (not the same as a lagoon in the US) to the east. The whole Lithuanian section is about 20 miles long, and less than two miles wide at its widest. Its population is only about 2500 residents, although that number swells in the summer because it's one of the most popular beach locations in Lithuania.
Preferred mode of travel for the weekend

This land mass is actually a sandbar, and as such, it's constantly changing. Entire towns have been buried by the sand. In the Middle Ages, the trees that had been growing in the area were cut down for timber, destabilizing the dunes. It took an international conference in 1768 and a coordinated effort to reforest the area, thus keeping the dunes in place.  Driving down most of the spit, it looks like a normal forest of evergreen trees, except the forest floor looks like it was laid down over sand, with ripples and mounds rather than rolling hills or flat lands. There are a few exposed, "moving" dunes that remain, but according to our travel book, these could disappear in a few hundred years.

We stayed in a cute little B&B guesthouse with the traditional fisherman's cottage exterior. I didn't get a picture of where we stayed, but here's a similarly-decorated house in a different village. The owner was very friendly, and quite patient with me as I tried my best to communicate in Lithuanian. All in all, I think I got along quite well!

One of the main things to do in the area is go to the beach. We visited a little before the summer season started, so it was a little on the cold side (highs around 65 degrees F). I've had several natives tell me that they enjoy swimming in the Baltic Sea, but I couldn't make it any farther than this!  Maybe later in the summer we can try again.

 In addition to riding around the town and along both coastlines, we climbed up one part of the sand dunes to this sundial. I've never been good at reading sundials. The shadow fell between the numbers 8 and 9, but it was almost noon - go figure. All in all it was a good weekend and a nice first excursion around the country.


Sunday, May 20, 2012

Update

View from Gediminas's Tower above part of Old Town Vilnius
I've thought of a hundred things to blog in the last month, but I haven't sat down to tell the stories. We're about to hit the two month mark, and it's really starting to feel like home for us. We're also staying busy and having a great time getting to know other folks in the community. Forgive me for the random thoughts and notes, but I just wanted to post a few pictures to catch up, so that then I can get back to a regular weekly (hey - what's wrong with some optimism?) blog.

J participated in a soccer tournament back in April. Sadly, our team didn't place, but they played hard and had fun. Don't their uniforms look great? Check out Jason catching a goal he blocked  (sorry for the fuzzy picture!)!

We've just done a little exploring around Old Town so far, but there are some amazing sights to see. Also, we've found a lot of great little restaurants that are relatively inexpensive. We took this photo from the site of the old fortress/castle from the 1500's, that originally protected Vilnius and the Grand Duchy. The tower that stands there now is a replica built during the last century, but it seems to be built to historical measurements, including the low stone ceiling that yours truly bumped into on the way up the small, winding steps to the top. We walked up the hill this time, but I believe the funicular is the way to ride up the hill in style!


I love seeing the hot air balloons that take off from somewhere in Old Town every clear evening - they are beautiful!!  I'm still getting used to the long days here. Twice this week I've gone to bed before it's dark outside (aka, before 10 p.m.), and let me tell you - that feels weird. I hear that when the weather is nice, people spend the evenings on the sidewalks and balconies of outdoor cafes, and the Old Town is full of people and energy. We've had one pretty warm week already, and I can attest that it is much more comfortable outside than in the apartment. It can get a little stuffy without air conditioning. This week it's been much cooler, and rather rainy (in Lithuanian, the phrase "The rain rains in Lithuania" has quite a ring to it).

We've had our share of little hiccups lately as well. Two weeks ago, we decided it was perfect weather for a bike ride. We put our bikes back together from the move, drug them down the stairs and we were ready to roll, right? Wrong. J's tire turned out to be irreparably flat, no matter how much air we tried to put in it. I managed to find a rental/repair shop who's manager spoke English, so we decided to take it to her to put in a new inner tube. Three hours and two stops later, I declared our mission a success. But sadly, just moments later, all the air had seeped out again. After 4 hours of effort, we gave up that weekend and went for a run instead.

But I'm happy to say that today we took the tire back today and had a second inner tube installed. Even with my poor Lithuanian (and the mechanic's limited English), we got it right this time! And so we were able to take our first bike ride around Vengris Park this evening - this giant park holds a large amphitheater in the center, and all trails through the woods to lead there. The amphitheater opens up into a large, flat grassy area that will hold thousands for major concerts. Today the field was full of people playing, reading, and soaking up the sun, with rollerbladers and bikeriders like us riding along the paved perimeter.